You may simply transform a bit of furniture cheaply by stripping off the old paint and refinishing the wood as to its original state. By stripping old furniture down to the natural wood you possibly can ensure a smooth surface - free of bumps and blemishes - which will be polished, varnished and even stenciled for a very new look. Make certain first that you know what finish you might be stripping because, paint, polish, lacquer or varnish all require different treatments.
Equipment: By hand, you want paint stripper, liquid or jelly kind, methylated spirits, and turpentine. A pair of rubber gloves, old paint brush 25 - 50 mm wide, a scraper, course wire wool and sand paper fine to medium grade.
Paint Stripping: if you are professional for tough work it might be removed by immersing the article in a caustic bath. A safer suggestion I would advocate by hand, utilizing a chemical paint stripper; this provides nice results as it adds an extra luster to the bare wood.
Technique: Firstly make sure that your work area is well ventilated as paint stripper provides off disagreeable fumes. Remove all fittings handles, key guides etc, then start brushing the stripper on to the painted areas, work the stripper into all cracks/crevices. When you have covered a workable space, leave the stripper to behave for a number of minutes. When it starts to bubble, remove the paint layer with your stripping knife or scraper, (put the paint shreds into an old paint tin as being caustic they're harmful) repeat the process till you attain the wood. When all the paint has been stripped, next step is to scrub the wood down with the manufactures recommendation on what neutralizer to use this will remove any remaining particles at the same time neutralizes the stripper. If the suggested neutralizer is say turpentine then soak a ball of wire wool and totally rub down the stripped surface. When dry sandpaper down to a smooth finish. Vital; always rub within the direction of the grain.
Stripping polish: before you'll be able to remove efficiently, you should know firstly the type of polish. If it is French polish this may be removed quite easily with methylated spirits, wipe it on generously, leave for a couple of minutes. When the polish has softened, scrape it off with a scraper then with fine wire wool (soaked in Methylated spirits) when the wood is dry you'll be able to sandpaper down to a nice smooth finish. If it is a Wax polish (oily surface) this you'll be able to remove with fine metal wool soaked with turpentine. Repeat until you might be at the naked wood, dry off with an absorbent cloth.
Varnished and Lacquered finishes: if the article being 50 years or more old it probably is an oil primarily based varnish of which was made from resins dissolved in oils and solvents. The cleanest/best way is with a scraper; tilt the scraper away from you working along the grain (by no means across the grain). Polyurethane varnishes use a paint stripper. Cellulose-based mostly varnishes might be removed by paint stripper, acetone, cellulose thinners, ammonia caustic soda, or turpentine. Recommend test a small area first to see which works best. Repairs, now you might be able to see the various faults. Your repairs are vital before the new finish can be applied, maybe the draws require re-nailing or weak joints to be glued, cracks and holes must be filled. Minor cracks and holes you use a plastic wood or non-shrinking stopper all available in various natural wood colors. Giant holes needs to be Plugged with a similar wood, lower to shape making sure the grain of the pug runs the same way as the remainder of the surface, after which glue it in. Fine sandpaper all of your repairs down to a smooth end for the subsequent stage.
Finishing with polyurethane: this offers naked wood a lustrous, hard wearing end of which is simple to clean and maintain. Polyurethane can withstand heat without marking although intense heat will damage the wood. There's a variety of natural wood colors available as well as clear all matt or gloss finish. It is important to let Polyurethane set; some brands can take up to weeks to achieve maximum hardness. Apply the varnish directly to the sanded wood with a brush as the varnish should be utilized in coats. It's a good suggestion with the first coat to dilute with spirit so that it soaks in and seals the wood. After every subsequent coat (when dry) lightly rub down with a fine sand paper. If you are using one of the colored varieties it would pay you to use the first coat with a clear, this will save any likelihood of a patchy finish. If you'd like a matt finish after using colored varnish make the ultimate coat with a transparent matt.
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