You possibly can easily rework a chunk of furniture cheaply by stripping off the old paint and refinishing the wood as to its original state. By stripping old furniture down to the natural wood you may ensure a smooth surface - freed from bumps and blemishes - which can be polished, varnished or even stenciled for a completely new look. Make positive first that you just know what finish you're stripping because, paint, polish, lacquer or varnish all require completely different treatments.
Equipment: By hand, you want paint stripper, liquid or jelly form, methylated spirits, and turpentine. A pair of rubber gloves, old paint brush 25 - 50 mm wide, a scraper, course wire wool and sand paper fine to medium grade.
Paint Stripping: if you're professional for troublesome work it will be removed by immersing the article in a caustic bath. A safer suggestion I might advocate by hand, using a chemical paint stripper; this gives great results as it adds an additional luster to the bare wood.
Method: Firstly make certain that your work space is well ventilated as paint stripper provides off unpleasant fumes. Remove all fittings handles, key guides and so on, then start brushing the stripper on to the painted areas, work the stripper into all cracks/crevices. When you have covered a workable area, leave the stripper to act for several minutes. When it starts to bubble, remove the paint layer with your stripping knife or scraper, (put the paint shreds into an old paint tin as being caustic they are harmful) repeat the process until you reach the wood. When all the paint has been stripped, next step is to scrub the wood down with the manufactures suggestion on what neutralizer to use this will remove any remaining debris at the identical time neutralizes the stripper. If the urged neutralizer is say turpentine then soak a ball of wire wool and totally rub down the stripped surface. When dry sandpaper down to a smooth finish. Important; always rub within the direction of the grain.
Stripping polish: earlier than you can remove successfully, it's essential to know firstly the type of polish. If it is French polish this can be removed quite easily with methylated spirits, wipe it on generously, leave for just a few minutes. When the polish has softened, scrape it off with a scraper then with fine wire wool (soaked in Methylated spirits) when the wood is dry you can sandpaper down to a pleasant smooth finish. If it is a Wax polish (oily surface) this you'll be able to remove with fine metal wool soaked with turpentine. Repeat until you are at the naked wood, dry off with an absorbent cloth.
Varnished and Lacquered finishes: if the article being 50 years or more old it probably is an oil based mostly varnish of which was made from resins dissolved in oils and solvents. The cleanest/best way is with a scraper; tilt the scraper away from you working alongside the grain (never across the grain). Polyurethane varnishes use a paint stripper. Cellulose-primarily based varnishes can be removed by paint stripper, acetone, cellulose thinners, ammonia caustic soda, or turpentine. Recommend test a small area first to see which works best. Repairs, now you are able to see the assorted faults. Your repairs are necessary earlier than the new end can be applied, maybe the draws require re-nailing or weak joints to be glued, cracks and holes should be filled. Minor cracks and holes you use a plastic wood or non-shrinking stopper all available in varied natural wood colors. Giant holes must be Plugged with the same wood, lower to shape making positive the grain of the pug runs the identical way as the rest of the surface, after which glue it in. Fine sandpaper all of your repairs down to a smooth finish for the subsequent stage.
Finishing with polyurethane: this provides bare wood a lustrous, hard wearing end of which is straightforward to clean and maintain. Polyurethane can withstand heat without marking although intense heat will damage the wood. There may be a variety of natural wood colors available as well as clear all matt or gloss finish. It is important to let Polyurethane set; some manufacturers can take up to weeks to achieve maximum hardness. Apply the varnish directly to the sanded wood with a brush because the varnish should be utilized in coats. It's a good suggestion with the first coat to dilute with spirit so that it soaks in and seals the wood. After each subsequent coat (when dry) lightly rub down with a fine sand paper. If you're using one of the colored varieties it would pay you to use the primary coat with a clear, this will save any likelihood of a patchy finish. If you need a matt finish after using colored varnish make the ultimate coat with a transparent matt.
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